COLCHESTER has been longing for a Michelin starred restaurant for so many years now, we’ve quite forgotten how lucky we are with the eateries we have.

And while the Blue Ivy might not be fine dining at its very highest level, it’s certainly fun dining.

But then that’s what you’ve always got with chef Paul Boorman.

I first discovered Paul tucked away at the Clarice House Health Spa creating spectacular sumptuous treats to amuse the taste buds as well as the quirkier sense of humour held by the members there.

Then he temporarily moved over to the Firstsite art gallery, where his eclectic artistry fitted in perfectly with the initial ethos of the venue, before he was snapped up by the Edge Hotel at Wivenhoe Park to pass on his skills to the next generation of super cool chefs.

Now he’s back in Colchester, running the Blue Ivy Restaurant, to the great delight of local foodies.

I can’t remember the last time I saw the classic French dish Bouillabaisse on a restaurant menu but it’s on the Blue Ivy’s – simply but magnificently done.

A gorgeous velvety tomato cream sauce in which Paul sinks plump pieces of salmon and coley, along with a generous handful of clams.

Delicious!

Then there’s the classic Rarebit, a stable starter these days it has to be said but when done well it rules them all.

The Blue Ivy’s natural choice of blue cheese Welsh rarebit is another undoubted hit, matched perfectly with the sharp vinegar tang of the pickled onion salad.

Now it has to be said any man that can get my wife to eat game should get a Michelin star just for the achievement, but that’s what Paul did with his pot roast pheasant.

Swathed in one of the most delicious sauces I’ve ever tasted, with just the right amount of cider and almonds, it was an absolute delight with the perfectly cooked light gamey flavour of the bird.

My wife insisted her dish beat mine, and, to be fair, it was a close run thing, but any dish would be hard pressed to match my onglet steak cooked in the classic French Bourguignon way.

Onglet, for those who don’t know, is what the French call Hanger Steak which comes from the lower belly of the animal. And Paul is one of those chefs who will refuse to “overcook” his meat.

So the steak is only cooked rare to medium, and I went in between. It was served with a large potato cake, a healthy serving of fresh vegetables and of course baby onions.

Despite having very little room left for a dessert, we shared one – the fresh, zingy and rather wonderful lemon posset with berry compote, although I could have easily had the chocolate brownie if my wife and I’s stomachs had allowed it.

There’s only one thing for it – I’ll have to go back!t.

NEIL D’ARCY-JONES

What We Ate:

Blue cheese Welsh rarebit, pickled onion salad £5.95
Bouillabaisse of local seafood £6.95
Onglet steak ‘Bourguignon’ £22.95
Pot roast pheasant, garlic, baby carrots, almonds, cider,
mushrooms £15.95
Lemon posset with berry compote £5

Our Verdict

Atmosphere - 4

Food - 5

Decor - 4

Value - 5

Service - 4